When we got to New Orleans, we checked into our Super 8 motel in Metairie, which is sort of a suburb of New Orleans. When I had originally looked for motels for the trip, I had discovered that New Orleans motels were either very expensive or totally booked through Mardi Gras and the couple of days after. My friend didn’t tell me, “I want to be right in the thick of Mardi Gras, no matter the cost,” so I looked at surrounding areas for a good deal on a motel. I found a Super 8 by the freeway in Metairie that was reasonably priced (considering how high everything was for the first three days of being there) and not as far away as some of the other outlying towns. I checked with my friend before I confirmed the reservation, telling her we could catch a cab to the heart of New Orleans, or maybe a bus if we were lucky, because the downtown motels were so expensive, and parking in New Orleans will generally get you a ticket, your car towed, or your car broken into. She agreed and I confirmed the reservation.
I wish that I would have given her a range of options to choose from, thereby making it completely her choice, with me just doing the legwork and confirmations. I knew she was very car-oriented, but I thought that my comments about cars in New Orleans, backed up by comments from every other person we talked to, would make her realize that blowing money on a couple of cabs to get us to and from the heart of New Orleans was actually money well spent, and money she had saved on the motel cost. Stupid me. I should have just booked us downtown at high prices, where we could have walked or ridden the streetcar everywhere. I’ll get back to that issue in the next installment.
When my friend checked us into the motel, I told her to ask the clerk if she knew about the Metairie Mardi Gras parade. I had been told by friends that Metairie had one of the family-oriented parades, which sounded to me like less hassle, less chance of pickpockets or muggers, and no issues with driving or catching cabs for the parade. Sure enough, the clerk told my friend that the parade was in the morning, just on the other side of the freeway. Perfect.
I was thinking in the back of my mind that if we weren’t too tired from the parade, we could then catch a cab downtown to look for an authentic New Orleans restaurant in the evening. And I had planned to contribute some of my small budget to help cover the cabs, which I had mentioned at least once when I was talking about cabs.
So we decided what time to go to the parade the next day and then relaxed in our room, drinking beer and eating out of our cooler instead of going out for dinner, because it had been a long day.
The next morning we excitedly got dressed and ready to go see the parade. The motel clerk had said we weren’t supposed to walk across the overpass, which wasn’t true, but since there was plenty of parking in Metairie, and we ended up with lots of beads, it was a good thing that we decided to drive across the freeway and park.
The crowd was already large, and many people were already set up along the parade route, even though the parade wasn’t scheduled to start for another hour. It was like a giant tailgate party, with families barbequing and setting up their viewing ladders. I had never seen such ladders before, rigged up with a seat on top and painted bright Mardi Gras colors. Kids ran every which direction, whooping and hollering, while teens roamed in packs.
We decided we had time to walk along the parade route for a while before the parade started, so off we went. We ended up walking most of the length of the route, mostly because my friend just kept going. We did get to see the sections of the route that were set up as private viewing stands for people who buy “season tickets” to the parade. We passed a costume contest just as a tiny little girl dressed as a pink bunny was on stage. I snapped a couple of pictures and we continued on. Eventually I started saying maybe we should try to get back closer to the starting end of the parade and look for a place to stand somewhere in the middle section. We gradually worked our way back toward the middle of the route and found a good place to stand as we saw the first parade floats coming our way.
Then came the bead frenzy. In the family parades, that consists of jumping up and down a lot, screaming at the top of your lungs, and waving your arms. No need to flash boobs for beads in Metairie. So we jumped and yelled and grabbed beads for maybe two hours, with me putting all of them around my neck and my friend putting them over her arms and finally into plastic bags. Eventually, as the main fancy floats faded into the distance and gave way to an endless line of bead-throwing trucks, I suggested that we start moving along the route toward the beginning and the car, so that we wouldn’t have so far to walk at the end. So we would walk a block and then stop again for some more yelling and jumping and grabbing beads. Gradually, as we got closer to the starting point, we were able to see that the line of trucks seemingly had no end. Later we found out that that part of the parade was called the truck parade, and it went on for a good hour past the float parade. Finally we were so overloaded with beads that I could hardly walk and my friend was practically dragging her bag like a tired Santa. I suggested we move over one block to head for the car without having to wade through so many people, especially since we were behaving like Pavlov’s dogs every time another truck passed.
So we moved off the route and continued at a quicker pace toward the car, staggering under our loads of beads. That’s when my friend stopped and said her feet hurt. I looked down at her feet and finally realized that she had made a very poor choice of shoes for walking and standing for hours. They were little slip on sandals, and they had been rubbing her feet raw to the point that the tops of her feet were covered with nasty blisters. So we slowed down a bit and she took her sandals off to walk along the sidewalk barefoot. As I suspected, we had walked a very long way from the car and it seemed as if we would never get there. At one point my friend said that she wanted to stop and have me go get the car and come pick her up. We had already had to meander a bit because of dead end streets, and I wasn’t comfortable with the idea of continuing on, finding the car, and then trying to find her again on strange streets, many of which were blocked off for the parade or were one way. She wasn’t happy with that, but I told her I didn’t want to spend the next hour wandering around looking for her so let’s just keep moving. So we did. At one point, when we were finally almost back to the beginning, we encountered more dead end streets, and I suggested walking back over to the parade route for the final few blocks. When we got back to the route, we found a new craziness in the form of the big clean up. Water trucks spraying water everywhere, bulldozers literally scraping up parade debris, dozens of workers with hand held blowers, police cars driving the route and getting people off the debris-laden street. It was crazy, like a giant bead truck had blown up and thrown beads everywhere. We picked our way down the street and finally found our block. With great relief we piled into the car with our giant piles of beads and headed back over the freeway to the motel.
We spent the next couple of hours sorting our beads, giggling maniacally, drinking beer, and congratulating ourselves on not having had to flash a single boob.
Finally we were faced with what to do about dinner. My friend was really set on “authentic” New Orleans food, but she had done NO research on area restaurants, AND when it comes right down to doing it, she hates to go any place spendy, which is what most well known places are. I had mentioned to her that my friends and I had found lots of little dives with good food the last time I was in town, but that we were in the heart of New Orleans and just stumbled onto them when we were wandering around. We both decided we were too worn out to go into New Orleans proper, especially since now my friend couldn’t walk with all her blisters. She decided she wanted crawfish ettoufee. Fine. Sounded good to me. I just wanted crawfish or gumbo. So we got out the phone book and started looking for restaurants in Metairie. Since Metairie is just a family-oriented suburb of New Orleans, there weren’t that many places to choose from that were listed in the phone book with information about their food. We settled on some place a couple of miles away that was supposed to have good seafood.
The place was easy to find and we got seated right away. We passed a table on the way to our table, with a guy consuming a giant pile of boiled crawfish. I almost grabbed his plate. My friend started commenting that the place seemed a little bit like a New Orleans version of Red Lobster. I said I didn’t really care, since the crawfish looked fresh and the servings looked generous. My friend ordered crawfish ettoufee, and I ordered a combination of crawfish ettoufee and fried crawfish. It was delicious, and since I hadn’t eaten either dish before, I certainly wasn’t going to assume that some place more “authentic” would be that much better. I was happy and full.
We headed back to the motel room, noticing when we did a u-turn that there was a Cafe Du Monde just down the street from the seafood place. Cafe Du Monde is famous in New Orleans for its chicory coffee and beignets. I had been to the original one next to Jackson Square down by the French Quarter, but I hadn’t realized that they had other outlets too. Score! Close to our motel and no giant crowds of tourists. So, tired, full, happy, and knowing where we were having breakfast in the morning, we collapsed in our room, played with our beads, watched coverage of the other parades on the television, and went to bed.